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Day 1 – C2C Walk

25 May 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

We’ll here it is at last. After months of planning we are now here and on our way. The day started with an alarm call at 4am and by 5 I had picked up Mark and we were on the road to Richmond. We arrived at around 7am with dark skies looming and the minibus driver warned us of heavy rain from his trips over the last week. The forecast was for heavy rain showers so we packed the rucksacks with plenty of waterproof clothing. The minibus transported us on a 2 hour journey to St Bees before taking our luggage to the first hotel. So suddenly there we were, stood on the sea front with 190 miles ahead of us but amazingly the weather forecasters had got it totally wrong. Gorgeous blue skies greeted us as we made our way down to the waters edge, posed for a few photos, collected a pebble and dipped our boots in the water. Then we were off.
The route starts gently with a nice undulating stroll along the coastal path and in the glorious sunshine from St Bees lighthouse we were treat to good views of Southern Scotland and the Isle of Man. After 4 miles the route turns to the east and we then have the sea behind us. The day is a fairly steady walk and we managed to get a good pace going. Around 7 miles and another photo opportunity with the statue of a walker pointing the way. From their we just went through a lot of farmland to Cleator.
Then came a shock. We knew there was a hill but just hadn’t realised how hard and steep it would be. Nearly 2 miles of vertical ascent up a grassy path but to be honest, the views at the top were stunning. Looking back we could see our full days walk all the way back to the Irish Sea and forward was the stunning forest of ennerdale. A sharp decent with just a large style (which Mark fell off lol) and then a steady walk to ennerdale bridge and the day was over.
We really couldn’t complain at the weather and the walk felt fairly easy. Mark has a few minor problems with his toes and my Achilles is hurting a bit but we feel really good. The Stork Hotel where we are staying is very nice and the landlord is a top bloke. We had a cracking lasagne and 5 pints of alcoholic beverages so need to work hard tomorrow.

Today’s full route: Day One

Day 2 – C2C Walk

26 May 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

Another day today that threatened bad weather but turned out fantastic. During the night I was woken by what sounded like stones hitting the windows. It was in fact rain in a proper downpour. When we woke at 7am it was very gloomy but had at least stopped raining. We had a really good full English breakfast with the best sausages I’ve tasted in ages, although Mark wasn’t keen.
The landlord called us out to the minibus for the short trip down to our starting point at Ennerdale Bridge along with some other coast to coasters. One was a tall long haired guy who had found a 6ft branch and was carrying it as a walking stIck. Mark nicknamed him Gandolph and we fully expected him to give the bus a miss and just appear at the start point but I guess he was saving his powers for something better later.
The walk started by heading down a lane then along a forest track to the edge of Ennerdale Water. The weather was brightening all the time and was very warm now meaning the jacket was off and it was shorts and a t-shirt all the way. The views by the lake were breathtaking and I’ll definitely be back again to walk here. The pictures below just don’t do it justice.
The next 9 miles to Black Sail youth hostel were fast but also quiet as we just took in the amazing scenery. We stopped for lunch at the bottom of a path that lead up to the summit of Haystacks. So I offered mark a diversion. I’ve already scaled Hay Stacks but thought it would be real treat to include this in our journey. He agreed and so off up the mountain we went. What an inspired decision. A steep climb followed by some great scrambling and then there we were at the summit of Wainwrights favourite fell. We posed for a few pics then head off in the direction of the tarn where Wainwrights ashes were sprinkled for his final resting place. Quite fitting to come here on what is his Coast to Coast route. We dropped from there to Honistor slate mine, taking in stunning views of Buttermere on the way. From Honistor it was just a few miles along the road to our accommodation at Seatoller Farm. And that was a pleasant surprise with really nice room and lovely people. Unfortunately there is no phone signal, no internet and no evening meals ( we did know this in advance) so we jumped on a bus and went to Keswick. A few beers and a really tasty freshly made burger meal and then it’s off back for a good nights sleep. Tomorrow is the hardest day of the whole route with some serious ascents to negotiate.
So far though it’s going well with 30 miles done and only 160 to go. The weather gods are on our side for now and we have no injuries or aches and pains for that matter.
Long May it continue 🙂

Full route from today: Day Two

Day 3 – C2C Walk

27 May 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

We knew today was the toughest of the whole route but never imagined just how tough. We started with a few steady miles through Borrowdale valley before starting a long slow climb up to Lining Crag and then to Greenup Edge. This really is a tough climb but when we turned to look at our path behind us it was breathtaking and worth every step. The views looked all the way back through Borrowdale to our starting point for the day. The next section turned out to be a bit of a farce. I’d looked at my gps and it showed us climbing a bit further. So on we went up this hill through some of the boggiest land we could imagine. Marks feet were soaked as he dint have waterproof shoes on. Over half way up and I suddenly noticed the others walking were behind us taking a different route. A quick check of the GPS and yep we had gone the wrong way. About 1 mile wrong. So off we went back through the same bog and getting wetter.
Once back on track we set off back down hill and towards Grasmere. After a lunch stop we decided to take the high route and took in 3 more wainwright fells, Calf Crag, Gibson Knott and Helm Crag. From there it was a steep downhill then the worst part of the journey so far.
After crossing the road that leads to Grasmere we set off up Great Tongue, a valley that sits between Seat Sandal and Fairfield. How hard was this, just relentless uphill grassy path for 3 miles. The only highlight of this climb was a black sheep with white eyes. It looked like it was wearing a mask and was gonna hold us up. By the top we were knackered but also pleased to see Grisedale tarn. This is my favourite place in the whole of the lakes and we took 10 mins out to have a food and drink stop. We then set off down the next valley to Patterdale. On the way down we met up with a guy who started at the same time as us. Chatting with him made the last 4 miles go quick. The accommodation isn’t the best but it will do. However, we went out to the Old Water View pub which is the one featured in the TV series about the coast to Coast. It’s where Wainwright stayed every year since 1931 when walking up here and doing his drawings. The landlord told us some stories of his stays and also enlightened us on his own daughter who at 9 years old has already done the coast to Coast 3 times. Amazingly his mother is also the oldest person to do it at 80 and was actually at Richmond today on the route again.
So the hardest day is done and we are now 48 miles in to the challenge and we should now be able to start doing some easier high mileage days.

Day 3 Route: route

Day 4 – C2C Walk

28 May 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

The alarm woke us at 7am and after a bacon and sausage butties we were off down the road. Very quickly we were climbing up a tough hill but at the top we were rewarded with a view of the stunning Angle Tarn. It’s a small lake but has 2 Islands and a cove and as Mark said “it looks like something off Lord of the Rings”. At that point the mist rolled in and by the time we reached the summit of The Knott it was drizzling enough to put the waterproofs on over the shorts. Another mile up and we reached the highest point of the whole coast to Coast route, Kidsty Pike. And this time we were rewarded with……….a view of white cloud. But the achievement was the main thing. A long decent came next down to the shore of Haweswater and although it was still drizzling the views were back. Haweswater is a man made lake and was the idea of Manchester water company in the 1930’s . They needed a supply of drinking water to provide the ever growing Manchester area and so it was decided to move the residents out of a village called Mardale over to Shap and then build a dam and flood the valley. The village still remains underneath the water and when there is a hot summer the water level drops to reveal the tops of the church and some buildings. This blog is now giving history lessons lol.
The next 5 mils are a steady walk along the shore of Haweswater up to the village of Burnbanks which was built to house the workers building the dam. A brief stop here which included meeting up with a bloke called Thomas who had started at the same time as us and who we’d met at various points each day. We decided to walk the last 4 miles to Shap together and then set off through bluebell woods, buttercup filled fields and then country lanes before arriving at the Kings Arms. The room here is the best we’ve had so far and the meal was stunning and only £7. A few games of pool (for the record I beat mark 2-1)

Day 5 – C2C Walk

29 May 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

Another early alarm call at 6-45 and down for another full English. It’s just got to be done on this walk, it’s the rules 🙂
After that it was off on what most people call the best day of the challenge. It’s a long day at 21 miles but it’s steady away over lots of rolling farmland. Our first point of interest was at 1 mile when we walked over a bridge that spans the M6 motorway. Two things to note here, firstly when you stand on the bridge looking south, everything to your right is the lakes which are now behind you and to he right is the Yorkshire dales which are your focus for the next few days. It’s the point where you finally leave the mountains behind and marks a change in landscape and terrain. The second is that there was a great big mast at the side of the bridge and that meant super fast internet to upload yesterday’s blog post and a chance to text people back home. We were like kids in a sweet shop as we browsed the internet text for our lives.
So a slow first mile but then we really got a good pace going. After 2 miles we met a young couple carrying full camping gear. We ended up chatting and walking most of the day with them. It turned out the couple were wild camping along the way, carrying huge backpacks and that Ross had proposed to Laura as part of the challenge on top of Hay Stacks in the lakes. I think he just wanted to give her the ring to shed some weight from his pack 😉 They really were great company and the conversation helped the miles drift by.
The day was different to what we had walked so far. It was still special but not quite as dramatic as the stunning lakes and mountains. We rolled through field after field walking on mostly grassy paths taking in views of the Howgills, the trough of bowland, sunbiggin tarn and as we approached Kirkby Stephen we had the treat of a WWII bomber flying at eye level in the valley ahead of us.
Yet again the weather was kind with a stiff breeze and cloudy skies but dry. We just can’t believe our luck with the weather as the forecast at the start was for rain every day. It’s actually only rained yesterday and that was only drizzle.
We had drifted away from Ross and Laura but with 2 miles to go we stopped for a coffee break and they caught us up so we finished the day with them. We arranged to meet for an meal at our hotel and had a great evening with some very good food and had a real good laugh. We were joined by another young man, who was born in Argentina, grew up in Italy and now lived in Denmark. He was also doing the walk but he couldn’t read maps very well and didn’t have any waterproof clothing. We had seen him once before on day 3 stood on top of the Knott lost in the rain. I still don’t know just how he is gonna get to the end of this but somehow I suppose he will.
As we are now pushing on with some big mileage days we sadly had to say goodbye to Ross and Laura. I’ll be honest id love to have walked the rest of the walk with these two and we will really miss them. If you are both reading this then I wish you all the best with your wedding and the future. We may not get chance to meet again but you’ll always be thought of when I reminisce over this challenge.
So we now have 5 days under our belt and tomorrow we will walk 25 miles, hit the half way point and then hit the 100 mile mark. A superb achievement and this really is the best experience of my life so far. Can’t wait for the next 5 days.

Day 6 – C2C Walk

30 May 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

Another day and yep you guessed it another full English breakfast. Not the best breakfast but for the first time it had Black Pudding which was a real bonus. The hotel we stayed at in Nateby was absolutely stunning with the best room and food of the walk so far. I’d love it of we could just stay here every night but it’s on to Reeth today on what most people think is the worst day of the challenge. There’s a lot of boggy ground on today’s route and so most people only walk as far as Keld but we are going to go straight through to Reeth on a 25 mile hike. While in Patterdale on Tuesday we got talking to a coast to Coast guide and he showed us a way to avoid 4 of the 6 miles of bogs. So because of the mileage that’s what we did.
After breakfast we set off and took a route through some fields rather than do a 4 mile trek up to Kirkby Stephen and back round. It was quite steady for a few miles and then we hit the boggy hillside of Nine Standards Rigg. It wasn’t as bad as first feared and wasn’t long before we were at the top. The nine standards stones are well worth this walk. Basically they are 9 piles of stones all built up in different shapes and sizes. No one knows how long they have been there or what their purpose was. The most common theory is that they were built so that they looked like an army on the hill to frighten off the Scots should they think about invading Kirkby Stephen. Looking at them it’s hard to imagine that but whatever the reason, they are really impressive objects and I’m glad we went up to see them. While at the top a guy came up placing markers in the ground marking the route for the nine standards fell race which us taking place this Sunday. He advised us to follow them all the way back to the road thus avoiding the worst of the bogs. It worked and 40 minutes later we were down. At this point we met up with another couple that had been staying at the same hotel that day and whom we’d come across on several of the previous days. They were from England but had moved to Australia several years ago. They explained that the had come back over just to do the coast to Coast walk which was very impressive. Along the roads the miles just flew by as we chatted and all was going well until we saw a lamb that had been hit by a car and dragged along the road. It really wasn’t a pretty sight and lowered the mood a little.
As we approached Keld we said our goodbyes and head into the village to the tea shop. It was now lunch time and we took in the fact that this was the half way point of the route. It’s hard to take in that we have walked so far in just 6 days.
We got back on the road and then dropped down to the River Swale, via a lovely waterfall, which we would now follow the rest of the day. Another interesting fact is that all the rivers up to this point flow west to the Irish Sea. The Swale is the start of all the rivers now flowing to the North Sea in the east. I’d never thought of this before but I guess it make sense really.
Our legs on this second half of the day were really starting to suffer but there is just so much beauty here in Swaledale that it helps you just keep pushing on. Field after field of green grassy paths that split the buttercups. Jaw dropping beauty that you just never tire of.
After 15 miles we approached the village of Muker which apart from a lovely bridge and picnic spot by the river, isn’t that special. But, it signalled us hitting the 100 mile point of the challenge. I just can’t believe we have walked 100 miles in less than a week 🙂
More fields and riverside trails continue on to the village of Gunnerside. Here we made the decision to deviate from the Wainwright route and stay down by the river. This was a great decision as we came across hundreds of baby rabbits in the fields, geese and their young walking along the riverbanks and even a badger although that turned out to be plastic but had us looking or a minute lol. The funniest moment was when the geese spooked by us walking towards them all tried to enter the river by jumping off a 3 foot bank. The little ones just dive bombed into the water and all bar one of the adults flew down. The odd one though decided to jump but belly flopped into the water with a huge squawk.
The next surprise came when we hit the roads again. First a motorbike came past with Course Safety on it. While we were trying to work out why he was going past we heard a noise behind us. As we turned we saw 4 cyclists with Team Sky clothing on. As they got along side us we noticed it was Tour De France champion, Chris Froome and three of his team mates. We then realised that he must be training for the Tour which is in these parts soon. This was confirmed by some locals in the pub later. The only bad thing is that I didn’t get time to get my camera out as they just flew past us effortlessly. Nevertheless it was a real treat and totally unexpected. Our decision to create our own route to Reeth was fully justified. Another few miles and finally we were done. Today has been a really hard day and we now are feeling a bit wary of tomorrow as we have to do the same distance again but on really sore legs. I’d walked today in boots because of the bogs but they just made my feet and ankles ache on the roads so tomorrow it’s back to the walking trainers. Weather again was awesome with sunshine for most of the day and zero rain.

https://www.justgiving.com/gr4ph/

Day 7 – C2C Walk

31 May 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

The alarm went off this morning at 6:40 am and to be honest I really didn’t want to get up. My legs ached and the thought of 20 odd miles again wasn’t appealing at all. We went down for another full English and then set off out of the village after first taking a picture of the village green where wainwright was interviewed when doing the TV series in the 1970’s. The walk started by following roads and after a few miles we came to Marrick priory, another church partly ruined by Henry VIII. From the priory there are some steps up to the village to Marrick and you get a great sense of history as you walk up them. They have clearly been there for centuries and it’s not hard to imagine families walking down every Sunday to go and pray. As we left the village we then came across a sheep in the fields with 2 sets of horns. The first were curly ones as you see on most sheep but it also had 2 long sharp horns that made it look like a devil sheep. One of the strangest sights so far on the walk.
The next few miles were through fields again but today the paths weren’t as grassy as yesterday. This was to be the story for most of the day and made it very difficult on the feet. A few more buttercup fields and again following the river Swale before we then entered the biggest town on the whole route, Richmond. The first thought in our heads was that my car was parked here and how tempting it would be to just jump in and drive to the end. We quickly dismissed that and moved into the town. We got some supplies at a supermarket, resisted the temptation of the local chippy and took a picture of the plaque celebrating the 1927 total Eclipse which was centred here.
Time for lunch here with views of the castle and the river and then it was off up the hill to walk through the rutted fields once more. Then we had a surprise as we came across the two Stevens. We had met them a few days before and had fleeting chats as we trudged through the lakes. We got talking and decide to walk the rest of the way together. They are both really good blokes and have formed their own walking group called ‘WithaVee Wanderers’, based on the fact that their name is spelt with a V and not a PH. One looks like a walking version of the hairy bikers and the other is a total comic who nicknames himself the Blithering Idiot. For miles he had us in stitches and was just the tonic we needed for the long afternoon facing us.

A small detour was forced on us as we approached the A19 and Catterick Racecourse and then it was back in the fields until we reached Bolton on Swale. The interesting fact here is an obelisk in the graveyard of the local church which has an inscription in the memory of Henry Jenkins who allegedly lived until he was 169 years old. I doubt he did but inside the church is a plaque in the wall that explains his story. The church also had a fridge of ice cold drinks available, literally a god send in the hot sun and high temperature, to all walkers for an optional donation and a signature in the guest book.
The next 6 miles to Danby Wiske were very tedious with all of us suffering from sore feet and legs. But finally we arrived and the last hundred yards with the White swan in view created huge relief for us all. A total of 26.46 miles were walked today and over 50 in the last two days. This walk is starting to take its toll and with the weather being so sunny and hot it’s very energy sapping. Having said that we are still going and a few beers and some good food get us refreshed again ready for tomorrow.

Day 8 – C2C Walk

1 June 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

Today has been the best day of the whole Coast to Coast so far. I just can’t believe how gorgeous the Yorkshire moors are. The day started with an alarm call at 6:45am and then down for breakfast with the 2 Steve’s before parting ways with them as they were doing a short day today. We started out with 8 boring miles of rutted farm fields and rough country lanes in a very warm morning sunshine. This was how the day ended yesterday and it really grinds you down. To be honest we thought the day would be like this and followed by boring moorland. The only highlights were walking across a train line with a train stopped but on the picture it looks more dramatic and getting to walk waist high through a corn field. We’ve always wanted to do that lol.

Then at 8 miles the day flipped on its head as we reached the very busy A19 and Exelby service station. The first thing I spotted was a giant burgundy coffee cup outside, that meant one thing…..COSTA COFFEE 🙂 We sat outside on a grass bank and I’m not kidding, that has to be the best costa coffee I’ve ever tasted. What a treat after those hard early miles. We stocked up on cold drinks, bought a sandwich for our dinner later and then put our lives at great risk as we dodged 70 mph traffic in a Coast to Coast version of frogger.
Once over the road we quickly entered the beautiful village of Ingleby Cross. This is a popular stop on the walk and it’s easy to see why. From there we started to climb steeply up through a stunning forest. This was the point that we joined the Cleveland Way and over the next few days we are on and off it quite a lot. Wainwright had pointed out that this woodland was teaming with wildlife from deer and foxes to badgers and birdlife but on such a warm day as this it was clear that they would all be hiding away out of the blazing sun. We travelled up and up but it didn’t feel to taxing and then suddenly there was a gap on our left that was simply stunning. Mark walked out into the clearing stood up on a tree stump to take in the view. It was a view of the whole of Teesside stretching out to Middlesborough on the right, Roseberry topping in the centre and on the left our route back as far back as Richmond which was some 40 miles away now. Roseberry Topping is a large circular hill that has a forest sat on top of it like a wooly hat and looks amazing.
Lunch and plenty of photos were taken before we then started heading down out of the forest. As we did Mark noticed in front of us a thin brown snake slithering across the path. I’ve never seen a snake in the uk before so it was another bonus to our day. I tried to get a picture which can be seen below but unfortunately only got a partial shot as it disappeared into the grass. Later while back at the hotel we looked into the snake and it turned out to be a slow worm but it’s still very impressive.
As we reached the bottom of the hill we found ourselves at Lord Stones Country Park. This is basically a cafe, camping site and location of a stone circle of which we couldn’t find any history at all. More interesting was a marquee in the field and various runners flying down the hill dressed in pink fairy costumes and wedding suits. I asked a runner ( I didn’t stop him, he was walking at the time) what was going on. It turned out to be a wedding and as the bride and groom were keen fell runners they had invited all their guests to take part in a wedding fell run. I just can’t believe how many people of all ages and shapes and sizes were keen to do this. A bit unusual and I reckon totally unique.
The walk then followed the moorland edge along a cliff top with non stop stunning views of Teesside and the surrounding countryside. You just can’t imagine how hard it is to keep walking as every time we looked left we just wanted to stop and admire it or take a picture. It’s very up and down and they are steep up and downs but it shows how far we have come as we just powered up them without any aches or pains (apart from Mark’s blisters on his heels which are getting steadily worse). Every climb was just a treat and I really can’t believe how good this section is. Towards the end of the days walk we reached Hasty Bank which has a large rocky outcrop called the Wainstones. The Cleveland way is definitely now on my to do list soon. Of course the weather did help a lot as we walked today in a blazing sun and 22 degree heat. Tomorrow is meant to be a bit showery and slightly cooler but to be honest I think we could do with that right now for the last few days. As long as it’s not heavy rain.
So another 21 miles done today bringing the total in 8 days to 158 miles and yet another nice hotel with probably the best meals so far at the Buck Inn in Chop Gate. As the hotel is off the route, they came up in a car to pick us up and are taking us back in the morning to continue the walk. A nice touch that saved our legs another 3 miles of walking.

Day 9 – C2C Walk

2 June 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

Another morning and another full English. This was the best one so far with beans, black pudding and duck eggs. After that the pub owner drove us up to our end point yesterday we set off on the days only hill. A short but steep climb up on to the summit of Round Hill. From there we carried on following the Cleveland Way for a few more miles along an old railway line. A mile on and we came across a piece of paper in the middle of the track held down by two large stones. Now at this point I should explain that the two Stevens (Hairy Hiker and Blithering Idiot) had parted company with us yesterday as they were ahead of schedule and were going to do a few shorter 10 mile days. Imagine our surprise as the note read:
“Graham and Mark. Come on you plodders. The early bird catches the Blithering Idiot. Lots of Love, The Witheavees”
They had only carried on through to the same village as us last night and got up early this morning to set off before us. We just couldn’t believe the sneakiness but it really lifted the spirits and got us laughing on our way.
The path now followed the old railway line for another 5 miles through some of the most remote moorland you can imagine. I love this trip but this section is so dull. So we just got our heads down and marched on. At the old Bloworth crossing junction we left the Cleveland Way but will meet back up with it tomorrow as we hit the last few miles. The railway track was really easy to walk on and we blitzed the first 8 miles in just over 2 hours, an astonishing pace considering it was day 9. Then we left the railway and walked up a small hill to the most remote pub in England, The Lion Inn. Time for a quick break and then more boring walking across the moors, this time along the roads. It just goes on and on and although we were doing some fast 17 minute miles it was starting to get us down.
A few more miles on and we then went on to the old Whitby Road which starts as a Tarmac road and then turns into sand. Just before the Tarmac ran out we came across another message. This time chalked out across the whole width of the road.
“the Withavees Woz here. (Having lunch)”
This was even funnier than the last message and I’m sure will keep other walkers behind us who know them amused over the next few days along that route. These lads are really funny guys and we couldn’t wait to catch them up. The only other point of note was the second fryup of the day. This time it was a signpost to a village of that name. That’s how boring this section is that I have to take pictures of half amusing signposts.
A few miles down the track and we then entered the village of Glaisdale. Immediately we saw a sign on a house for Glaisdale Tea Garden. It was a lady’s house and she used to offer walkers a cup of tea. Then last year she decided to turn her large garden shed into a tea room complete with seats inside and decking outside stretching into her garden. We took the opportunity to have a cup of tea and take a lunch stop. This is a really cracking stop and I hope she succeeds in her business venture. The weather was turning and threatened rain but thankfully it held off and by the time we left the tea garden it was bright and sunny again.
We passed on through the town of Glaisdale and took a route through a really nice forest with streams either side of us. The path through here was lined with old stones that had clearly been there for hundreds of years judging by the amount they were worn. It reminded me of the path a few days ago up to Marrick from the priory. You’re mind just starts to think of all the people that have walked through it before you.
Once out of the wood it was just a short walk along the road to Egton Bridge and then through a country estate towards Grosmont, our destination for the evening. At the end of the lane as we entered the village we saw two weary gentlemen sat on a bench. Yep you guessed it, we had finally caught up with hairy hiker and blithering idiot. They were just deciding which campsite to go to as the village has one at either end. After a quick catchup and a good laugh about the messages they left, we walked through the village towards our B&B which was situated right outside the Grosmont Railway station. This is a steam railway called the North Yorkshire Moors Steam Railway and was the station used in the Harry Potter movies for the Hogwarts Express. Then as if to welcome us home, a stunning black steam train started to set off from the platform. What an amazing end to a very dull walking day. Suddenly the boring moors didn’t matter anymore, even more so when we saw that we had walked over 22 miles in less than 8 hours. A blistering pace of 2.8 mph, our fastest of the walk so far.
So another day done and just one more to go. It’s mixed emotions with the joy of completing this huge challenge and on my birthday and the genuine sadness that it’s all over. Part of me actually wants to turn round and go back to St Bees. Maybe a challenge for me in the future lol. I don’t think mark is impressed with that as his blisters are now really bad and cover most of his feet. I feel a little guilty because I haven’t got a single one after 180 miles. Anyway, the B&B is really nice and we got talking to three elderly women over our meal who are also on the challenge and look to finish tomorrow after 20 days. The town only has one pub which is a private railway club but the landlord has kindly allowed us in for a couple. Well we couldn’t not have a beer to end the day could we? 😉

Day 10 – C2C Walk

3 June 2014/4 Comments/in 2014 - Coast to Coast, Latest Entries /by Graham Denney

A strange feeling this morning as we awoke with the alarm at 6am. This would be the last time we would be doing this. The last alarm call, the last fry up and the last day leaving our bags behind to walk to another town. Part of me is disappointed but I’ve also this great excitement of how this day will end. So up we get and as mentioned another full English, this being the best of the lot. It had the lot, 2 sausages, beans, 2 eggs, 2 bacon, mushrooms, black pudding and fried bread. Mark thinks I’ve become a bit of a sausage expert on this trip as every day we get different locally produced ones with some fantastic tastes. It’s the topic of conversation every morning until we get going lol.
Then it’s out the door, across the railway crossing and immediately into a 30% gradient hill for 2 miles. This is the last one though and it really shows how fit we have become as we powered up at 23 min mile pace. I think we also, both were keen to get these last few miles out of the way, non more so once we reached the top as we once again had to trek through boring moorland. Thankfully this time it was just a couple of miles and it did offer us our first amazing view of the day. Whitby Abbey and the North Sea. This really brought it home to us that we are gonna do this and it put a spring in our step.
As we dropped off the moor the spring went a little when we entered Little Beck Wood. Wainwright mentions this in his guides as a forest teaming with wildlife. What he didn’t mention was that the wildlife don’t play out when it’s raining and the whole wood is one muddy mess of ups and downs that are treacherous to navigate. That said there are two things that make it worth the walk through. The first is a giant boulder of around 12ft called The Hermitage that a George Chubb has carved the centre out of to make a cave. Above the doorway are carved his initials and the date 1790 and when you enter there is even a stone seat carved out so you can sit and view the woodland. Above the rock if you climb up are two stone wishing chairs and it’s said that if you make a wish in one you must then sit in the other to make the wish come true. Unfortunately although we saw the rock and went inside, we didn’t know about the chairs until after the walk was over. I think I’d have wished for all the bloody mud to dry up lol.
The second is a stunning waterfall around half way through called Falling Foss. It’s approx 30ft high and mostly surrounded by foliage but because of the rain that had fallen overnight and the showers today, it was in full flow and stunning to view.
The trail through the woods goes on for another mile and then starts to climb gently out towards some moorland. The views looking back over Littlebeck Wood are well worth a glance back looking like a green carpet through the valley. I just never tire of these amazing views day after day. Across the moorland we went and then came a boggy field. I had managed to keep my feet dry for all previous 9 days through boggy fields and by amending our route at times. How typical on the last day to take a path right into shin deep water. My shoes filled with water and made the rest of the day a little uncomfortable. By now though it didn’t matter as we hit the road and marched on through Hawster and up towards Northcliffe Caravan Park which is where we finally hit the coastal path. Just 2 more miles now along this path and a slight edge taken off the walk as the showers had churned up the mud again. Around Halfway down the path and the rain stopped and the views of the coves and rocks hit us. What a wonderful way to march into Robin Hoods Bay.
Just as we reached the top of the very very steep road down to the sea we came across a bloke dressed in authentic woollen WW1 uniform complete with jack boots and a hessian rucksack. We had heard about him the previous night at Grosmont but hadn’t realised just what he was doing. A chat on the hill revealed he was doing the Coast to Coast for the 3rd year running, in just 14 days, he was 71 years old and from Colne. What a remarkable coincidence and what a top effort. We put the change in our pocket into his Help For Heroes tub and all entered the North Sea together. An amazing way to end this incredible challenge.

We took our pebbles and threw them into the sea to signal the end of 10 incredible days. A photo in front of the plaque on the wall of the Bay Hotel and then inside to Wainwrights Bar to firstly sign the Coast to Coast book and then to toast the achievement with a pint of Wainwrights ale. It wouldn’t be right to drink anything else now would it?

We have walked 195 miles across three national parks in just 10 days at an average pace of 2.4mph. We both have an amazing suntan and on the blister front I incredibly have none at all but unfortunately Mark has suffered quite badly with them. Even the Compeed could keep them at bay for him.

We have met some wonderful people and seen some amazing views from the wonderful mountains and lakes in the Lake District, the simply stunning fields and rivers in the Yorkshire Dales (especially Swaledale) and the baron desolate moorland on the North Yorkshire Moors. I have tried to describe in this blog, and capture in my photographs, the views as best I can but I promise you no matter how good you think they are, it’s nothing compared to seeing it yourself. I honestly can’t wait to do this again although it will have to wait a while. The best experience of my life by far and although I’m incredibly proud of the achievement I’m also a little sad it’s all over.

So that’s it, I hope you have all enjoyed my blog and that it inspires some of you to go and do this yourselves. In the meantime I just want to ask for one last time that you consider the reason I’ve done all this, to raise much needed funds for Pendleside Hospice. You can securely donate at https://www.justgiving.com/gr4ph/

Thank you all for your support.

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