June 2014 – Not Home Today

Day 8 – C2C Walk

1 June 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

Today has been the best day of the whole Coast to Coast so far. I just can’t believe how gorgeous the Yorkshire moors are. The day started with an alarm call at 6:45am and then down for breakfast with the 2 Steve’s before parting ways with them as they were doing a short day today. We started out with 8 boring miles of rutted farm fields and rough country lanes in a very warm morning sunshine. This was how the day ended yesterday and it really grinds you down. To be honest we thought the day would be like this and followed by boring moorland. The only highlights were walking across a train line with a train stopped but on the picture it looks more dramatic and getting to walk waist high through a corn field. We’ve always wanted to do that lol.

Then at 8 miles the day flipped on its head as we reached the very busy A19 and Exelby service station. The first thing I spotted was a giant burgundy coffee cup outside, that meant one thing…..COSTA COFFEE 🙂 We sat outside on a grass bank and I’m not kidding, that has to be the best costa coffee I’ve ever tasted. What a treat after those hard early miles. We stocked up on cold drinks, bought a sandwich for our dinner later and then put our lives at great risk as we dodged 70 mph traffic in a Coast to Coast version of frogger.
Once over the road we quickly entered the beautiful village of Ingleby Cross. This is a popular stop on the walk and it’s easy to see why. From there we started to climb steeply up through a stunning forest. This was the point that we joined the Cleveland Way and over the next few days we are on and off it quite a lot. Wainwright had pointed out that this woodland was teaming with wildlife from deer and foxes to badgers and birdlife but on such a warm day as this it was clear that they would all be hiding away out of the blazing sun. We travelled up and up but it didn’t feel to taxing and then suddenly there was a gap on our left that was simply stunning. Mark walked out into the clearing stood up on a tree stump to take in the view. It was a view of the whole of Teesside stretching out to Middlesborough on the right, Roseberry topping in the centre and on the left our route back as far back as Richmond which was some 40 miles away now. Roseberry Topping is a large circular hill that has a forest sat on top of it like a wooly hat and looks amazing.
Lunch and plenty of photos were taken before we then started heading down out of the forest. As we did Mark noticed in front of us a thin brown snake slithering across the path. I’ve never seen a snake in the uk before so it was another bonus to our day. I tried to get a picture which can be seen below but unfortunately only got a partial shot as it disappeared into the grass. Later while back at the hotel we looked into the snake and it turned out to be a slow worm but it’s still very impressive.
As we reached the bottom of the hill we found ourselves at Lord Stones Country Park. This is basically a cafe, camping site and location of a stone circle of which we couldn’t find any history at all. More interesting was a marquee in the field and various runners flying down the hill dressed in pink fairy costumes and wedding suits. I asked a runner ( I didn’t stop him, he was walking at the time) what was going on. It turned out to be a wedding and as the bride and groom were keen fell runners they had invited all their guests to take part in a wedding fell run. I just can’t believe how many people of all ages and shapes and sizes were keen to do this. A bit unusual and I reckon totally unique.
The walk then followed the moorland edge along a cliff top with non stop stunning views of Teesside and the surrounding countryside. You just can’t imagine how hard it is to keep walking as every time we looked left we just wanted to stop and admire it or take a picture. It’s very up and down and they are steep up and downs but it shows how far we have come as we just powered up them without any aches or pains (apart from Mark’s blisters on his heels which are getting steadily worse). Every climb was just a treat and I really can’t believe how good this section is. Towards the end of the days walk we reached Hasty Bank which has a large rocky outcrop called the Wainstones. The Cleveland way is definitely now on my to do list soon. Of course the weather did help a lot as we walked today in a blazing sun and 22 degree heat. Tomorrow is meant to be a bit showery and slightly cooler but to be honest I think we could do with that right now for the last few days. As long as it’s not heavy rain.
So another 21 miles done today bringing the total in 8 days to 158 miles and yet another nice hotel with probably the best meals so far at the Buck Inn in Chop Gate. As the hotel is off the route, they came up in a car to pick us up and are taking us back in the morning to continue the walk. A nice touch that saved our legs another 3 miles of walking.

Day 9 – C2C Walk

2 June 2014/in 2014 - Coast to Coast /by Graham Denney

Another morning and another full English. This was the best one so far with beans, black pudding and duck eggs. After that the pub owner drove us up to our end point yesterday we set off on the days only hill. A short but steep climb up on to the summit of Round Hill. From there we carried on following the Cleveland Way for a few more miles along an old railway line. A mile on and we came across a piece of paper in the middle of the track held down by two large stones. Now at this point I should explain that the two Stevens (Hairy Hiker and Blithering Idiot) had parted company with us yesterday as they were ahead of schedule and were going to do a few shorter 10 mile days. Imagine our surprise as the note read:
“Graham and Mark. Come on you plodders. The early bird catches the Blithering Idiot. Lots of Love, The Witheavees”
They had only carried on through to the same village as us last night and got up early this morning to set off before us. We just couldn’t believe the sneakiness but it really lifted the spirits and got us laughing on our way.
The path now followed the old railway line for another 5 miles through some of the most remote moorland you can imagine. I love this trip but this section is so dull. So we just got our heads down and marched on. At the old Bloworth crossing junction we left the Cleveland Way but will meet back up with it tomorrow as we hit the last few miles. The railway track was really easy to walk on and we blitzed the first 8 miles in just over 2 hours, an astonishing pace considering it was day 9. Then we left the railway and walked up a small hill to the most remote pub in England, The Lion Inn. Time for a quick break and then more boring walking across the moors, this time along the roads. It just goes on and on and although we were doing some fast 17 minute miles it was starting to get us down.
A few more miles on and we then went on to the old Whitby Road which starts as a Tarmac road and then turns into sand. Just before the Tarmac ran out we came across another message. This time chalked out across the whole width of the road.
“the Withavees Woz here. (Having lunch)”
This was even funnier than the last message and I’m sure will keep other walkers behind us who know them amused over the next few days along that route. These lads are really funny guys and we couldn’t wait to catch them up. The only other point of note was the second fryup of the day. This time it was a signpost to a village of that name. That’s how boring this section is that I have to take pictures of half amusing signposts.
A few miles down the track and we then entered the village of Glaisdale. Immediately we saw a sign on a house for Glaisdale Tea Garden. It was a lady’s house and she used to offer walkers a cup of tea. Then last year she decided to turn her large garden shed into a tea room complete with seats inside and decking outside stretching into her garden. We took the opportunity to have a cup of tea and take a lunch stop. This is a really cracking stop and I hope she succeeds in her business venture. The weather was turning and threatened rain but thankfully it held off and by the time we left the tea garden it was bright and sunny again.
We passed on through the town of Glaisdale and took a route through a really nice forest with streams either side of us. The path through here was lined with old stones that had clearly been there for hundreds of years judging by the amount they were worn. It reminded me of the path a few days ago up to Marrick from the priory. You’re mind just starts to think of all the people that have walked through it before you.
Once out of the wood it was just a short walk along the road to Egton Bridge and then through a country estate towards Grosmont, our destination for the evening. At the end of the lane as we entered the village we saw two weary gentlemen sat on a bench. Yep you guessed it, we had finally caught up with hairy hiker and blithering idiot. They were just deciding which campsite to go to as the village has one at either end. After a quick catchup and a good laugh about the messages they left, we walked through the village towards our B&B which was situated right outside the Grosmont Railway station. This is a steam railway called the North Yorkshire Moors Steam Railway and was the station used in the Harry Potter movies for the Hogwarts Express. Then as if to welcome us home, a stunning black steam train started to set off from the platform. What an amazing end to a very dull walking day. Suddenly the boring moors didn’t matter anymore, even more so when we saw that we had walked over 22 miles in less than 8 hours. A blistering pace of 2.8 mph, our fastest of the walk so far.
So another day done and just one more to go. It’s mixed emotions with the joy of completing this huge challenge and on my birthday and the genuine sadness that it’s all over. Part of me actually wants to turn round and go back to St Bees. Maybe a challenge for me in the future lol. I don’t think mark is impressed with that as his blisters are now really bad and cover most of his feet. I feel a little guilty because I haven’t got a single one after 180 miles. Anyway, the B&B is really nice and we got talking to three elderly women over our meal who are also on the challenge and look to finish tomorrow after 20 days. The town only has one pub which is a private railway club but the landlord has kindly allowed us in for a couple. Well we couldn’t not have a beer to end the day could we? 😉

Day 10 – C2C Walk

3 June 2014/4 Comments/in 2014 - Coast to Coast, Latest Entries /by Graham Denney

A strange feeling this morning as we awoke with the alarm at 6am. This would be the last time we would be doing this. The last alarm call, the last fry up and the last day leaving our bags behind to walk to another town. Part of me is disappointed but I’ve also this great excitement of how this day will end. So up we get and as mentioned another full English, this being the best of the lot. It had the lot, 2 sausages, beans, 2 eggs, 2 bacon, mushrooms, black pudding and fried bread. Mark thinks I’ve become a bit of a sausage expert on this trip as every day we get different locally produced ones with some fantastic tastes. It’s the topic of conversation every morning until we get going lol.
Then it’s out the door, across the railway crossing and immediately into a 30% gradient hill for 2 miles. This is the last one though and it really shows how fit we have become as we powered up at 23 min mile pace. I think we also, both were keen to get these last few miles out of the way, non more so once we reached the top as we once again had to trek through boring moorland. Thankfully this time it was just a couple of miles and it did offer us our first amazing view of the day. Whitby Abbey and the North Sea. This really brought it home to us that we are gonna do this and it put a spring in our step.
As we dropped off the moor the spring went a little when we entered Little Beck Wood. Wainwright mentions this in his guides as a forest teaming with wildlife. What he didn’t mention was that the wildlife don’t play out when it’s raining and the whole wood is one muddy mess of ups and downs that are treacherous to navigate. That said there are two things that make it worth the walk through. The first is a giant boulder of around 12ft called The Hermitage that a George Chubb has carved the centre out of to make a cave. Above the doorway are carved his initials and the date 1790 and when you enter there is even a stone seat carved out so you can sit and view the woodland. Above the rock if you climb up are two stone wishing chairs and it’s said that if you make a wish in one you must then sit in the other to make the wish come true. Unfortunately although we saw the rock and went inside, we didn’t know about the chairs until after the walk was over. I think I’d have wished for all the bloody mud to dry up lol.
The second is a stunning waterfall around half way through called Falling Foss. It’s approx 30ft high and mostly surrounded by foliage but because of the rain that had fallen overnight and the showers today, it was in full flow and stunning to view.
The trail through the woods goes on for another mile and then starts to climb gently out towards some moorland. The views looking back over Littlebeck Wood are well worth a glance back looking like a green carpet through the valley. I just never tire of these amazing views day after day. Across the moorland we went and then came a boggy field. I had managed to keep my feet dry for all previous 9 days through boggy fields and by amending our route at times. How typical on the last day to take a path right into shin deep water. My shoes filled with water and made the rest of the day a little uncomfortable. By now though it didn’t matter as we hit the road and marched on through Hawster and up towards Northcliffe Caravan Park which is where we finally hit the coastal path. Just 2 more miles now along this path and a slight edge taken off the walk as the showers had churned up the mud again. Around Halfway down the path and the rain stopped and the views of the coves and rocks hit us. What a wonderful way to march into Robin Hoods Bay.
Just as we reached the top of the very very steep road down to the sea we came across a bloke dressed in authentic woollen WW1 uniform complete with jack boots and a hessian rucksack. We had heard about him the previous night at Grosmont but hadn’t realised just what he was doing. A chat on the hill revealed he was doing the Coast to Coast for the 3rd year running, in just 14 days, he was 71 years old and from Colne. What a remarkable coincidence and what a top effort. We put the change in our pocket into his Help For Heroes tub and all entered the North Sea together. An amazing way to end this incredible challenge.

We took our pebbles and threw them into the sea to signal the end of 10 incredible days. A photo in front of the plaque on the wall of the Bay Hotel and then inside to Wainwrights Bar to firstly sign the Coast to Coast book and then to toast the achievement with a pint of Wainwrights ale. It wouldn’t be right to drink anything else now would it?

We have walked 195 miles across three national parks in just 10 days at an average pace of 2.4mph. We both have an amazing suntan and on the blister front I incredibly have none at all but unfortunately Mark has suffered quite badly with them. Even the Compeed could keep them at bay for him.

We have met some wonderful people and seen some amazing views from the wonderful mountains and lakes in the Lake District, the simply stunning fields and rivers in the Yorkshire Dales (especially Swaledale) and the baron desolate moorland on the North Yorkshire Moors. I have tried to describe in this blog, and capture in my photographs, the views as best I can but I promise you no matter how good you think they are, it’s nothing compared to seeing it yourself. I honestly can’t wait to do this again although it will have to wait a while. The best experience of my life by far and although I’m incredibly proud of the achievement I’m also a little sad it’s all over.

So that’s it, I hope you have all enjoyed my blog and that it inspires some of you to go and do this yourselves. In the meantime I just want to ask for one last time that you consider the reason I’ve done all this, to raise much needed funds for Pendleside Hospice. You can securely donate at https://www.justgiving.com/gr4ph/

Thank you all for your support.

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